The Rundown: January 5th-27th

If I had to pick one word to describe Juba since my return from Uganda on the fifth of this month that word would be: hot. It has been incredibly hot here since I’ve been back routinely reaching 100 degrees and above. If I had to pick a second word it would be dry, it has only rained twice since I returned and both of those times were in the last week. Dust is everywhere, making the already Sisyphean task of controlling its presence in my home and office that much more difficult. It is in the dry season that one comes to recognize the value of rain and its ability to break the heat. One of the rain storms occurred in the middle of night making for an unusually cool morning. The other came during the day and I have to admit I lingered outside enjoying the gentle rain fall for a few minutes before heading inside for shelter.

When I haven’t been fighting dust, trying not to think about the heat, or enjoying the rain I’ve been working on project planning. We’ve now reached the final stage of the planing process, the preparation of what in MCC parlance is called the general plan format. The GPF is the document in which the vision that was developed through concept papers is given form. The heart of the GPF are sections where partners document their goals and the objectives and activities they will carry out to reach those goals, and the section where partners document the changes they expect to see and how they will measure those changes. These sections serve to give direction to the projects MCC funds and helps MCC and the partner see how well they are moving in that direction. Surrounding these sections are sections in which partners explain the general environment in which their project will take place. The partners are also asked to consider how their project fits with other aims of MCC like care of creation and ensuring equal opportunities for individuals traditionally marginalized by the society in which they live.

These documents can become quite lengthy even for a simple project, can they become even more challenging for something complex. Some projects are continuations of projects we’ve done in the past and obviously the planning process for these is much simpler than for projects that are new. In either case the involve pretty significant expenditure of brain power. The reward is getting to see people’s vision for their community blossom in to reality. I’ve really loved the conversations I’ve had with partners as we go through the process.

Fractal Humanity

There is a passage in Homer’s Iliad where two warriors -Glaucus fighting for the Trojan cause Diomed warring on behalf of the Greeks – are preparing to engage each other in single combat. Both are eager to establish their prowess at warfare. Before the he will agree to the dual Diomed asks Glaucus to prove he is human and not a god in disguise. In order to do so Glaucus tells his family’s history as he does Diomed realizes that Glaucus father is a friend of his father. With this connection established it become impossible for the two to continue in violence against one another. Homer relates how the moment of connection was realized as Diomed says to Glaucus:

…let us avoid one another’s spears even during the general engagement; there are many noble Trojans and allies whom I can kill, if I overtake them and heaven delivers them into my hand; so again with yourself, there are many Achaeans whose lives you may take if you can; we two, then, will exchange armour, that all present may know of the old ties that subsist between us.

With these words they sprang from their chariots, grasped one another’s hands, and plighted friendship.

The old Greek poet points out a facet of humanness I first witnessed in my natal south: regardless of how we might feel about an idea or a group in general, when we are connected with an individual our feelings about that idea or group become secondary to how we feel about a person. Knowing someone changes everything; connection is the greatest enemy of hatred and violence. We may quietly ignore jokes, insults, and veiled threats until our brother, or cousin, or friend becomes the victim and then we will abide them no longer.

I have seen the power of connection in Sudan as well, where western terminology for these connections is often inadequate to describe their nature. The linguistic inadequacies gives rise portmanteaus which alternately confuse and bring laughter to those unfamiliar with context – brothercousin, for instance, is one of the more common.  In addition to the ties of family and friendship tribe and home area also important sources of connection. Pain and joy are felt throughout the whole community when a tribemate experiences loss or makes good.

I recall my groundskeeper once asking for a day off to join in the mourning of a woman killed in boda-boda accident, he didn’t know her but he was a part of her tribe. He saw it as his duty to her and to his community to mourn her loss. I also remember being amazed by how visibly he was moved by the loss. Although duty compelled him to mourn her, he mourned her deeply, he was affected by her loss in a way I still find incredible difficult fathom.

We are species that relies on connections, we are a part of a nature that abhors a vacuum and we cannot exist in one. We are creatures built to reside in ecosystems, beautiful because their inherent complexity. At every level of humanity, individual, communal and societal we are reliant on one another for our survival. Living is too great a challenge for us to be able to do it on our own, as strong as we may be we are never strong enough to exist without the work and welfare of others.

It because of our inherently ecosystemic nature that we nurture and defend our connections. The profound value we grant them drevide from the fact that they not only provide for our physical survival but  because they ensure mental, emotional, and spiritual survival as well. Connected we thrive, disconnected we die.

The downside of this predilection is that where a connection appears to be absent we prone to take it to mean that we are excused from the deference we are required to show those to whom we are bound. It was true of Diomed and Glaucus when they gave each other carte blanche to destroy other foes, it is expressed in my home area various abuses which occurred prior to the civil rights era but which are still not unheard of today, and in Sudan it is seen in the growing rate of inter-tribal conflict. The failure here is not a moral one, on the whole we grasp our duty to our connections, it is a failure of imagination.

Think deeply about your typical day and you will realize how dependent you are on people across the face of the earth. People, like the people who made your cereal and juice or who grew your coffee, the people that built car you drive to work, the people who helped to educate you so that you could even get job, the people who built roads and buildings, on and on the connections grow. They multiply even more when you realize that every person you are connected to is connected to many more people. Humanity: an infinite and ever growing collection of fractals spreading out forwards and backwards across history.

This thought experiment is more than just some warm way to think about our fellow humans or the platform on which to build a parlor game, it is the source of a moral obligation. If we are called to protect, nurture, and defend our connections – and most of us already live in way that would suggest that is indeed an imperative – and our connections run through whole of our kind then our duty becomes to seek out ways show care for every person whose paths we cross. It is a massive obligation because the obligation extends beyond our individual lives, it impacts how we structure our neighborhoods, our religious and social organizations, and our workplaces. This imperative of connectedness forces us to constantly evaluate and re-evaluate our society at all levels from our towns and cities to our nations, this duty forces the nations of the earth to re-think and re-imagine how they interact with one another.

It is a weighty thing to be connected, it is difficult and demanding, but ultimately far less difficult than attempting to exist apart form the connections upon which we are born to depend.

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Quotation from; The  Iliad, by Homer, translated by Samuel Butler,  Book 6.

BBC: Hope for Sudan?

The BBC’s Peter Martell discusses Sudan President Omar al-Bashir’s speech at the recent CPA celebration held in Yambio, southern Sudan. In his speech Mr. Bashir acknowledge the possibility for southern secession and while he stated that his preference is still for unity he and the north would accept an independent south if that was the course the people wish to take.

Mr Bashir said his northern National Congress Party did not want the south to secede, but would support the choice of the people.

It is a message dear to hearts of the people in the south.

“If the result of the referendum is separation, then we in the NCP will be the first to take note of this decision and to support it,” said Mr Bashir, a soldier who spent long years battling to crush the southern rebel fighters.

It was his closest acknowledgement yet of the possibility of separation, and was well received.

Many were optimistic his unusually conciliatory tone bodes well for the south, where opinion on the streets seems overwhelmingly for separation.

This is big news because up to now the rhetoric has been strongly anti-independence. Obviously much remains to be seen, and the activities of both sides still do not bode well for a peaceful separation. Still Mr. Bashir has opened the door to a small sense of hope, hope that has been diminishing over the last several months.

The Rundown: December 2009 (Wherein food gets mentioned often)

December was quite a month for me, it began with the flurry of activity as I engaged with partners to develop concept papers outlining their vision for projects in the coming fiscal year. The concept paper is the most basic step in our planning cycle. For concept papers we ask our partners to begin by stating the problem they wish to address through new or continued programming. We then ask how the plan fits in with MCC’s overall vision. Following this comes an outline of basic goals and activities that will reach those goals. Finally we ask who will benefit from the project and how they will be selected. This activity took up a good portion of my time during the first couple of weeks of the month fortunately there was plenty of time to rest in the second half of December.

On the thirteenth the other members of the Sudan team and I boarded a flight for Entebbe, Uganda. Our time in Uganda began by joining members of the MCC Uganda team for a retreat at Lake Bunyoni. Lake Bunyoni lies in the extreme south of Uganda situated in the mountains near the Rwandan border. The lake is surrounded by hills with terraced farms on all sides and is amazingly beautiful. The weather there is cool; a nice, refreshing break from the heat of Sudan. In our retreat we learned about stress management, it helped a lot to be able to share experiences with other MCCers. We also had a wonderful time just hanging out. The real highlight of a visit to Lake Bunyoni is the local crayfish which the place at which we were staying prepares in an excellent dish.

After the retreat we spent a night and a day in Kampala before going off to visit with members of the Uganda team a their sites. While in Kampala I had the chance to go to the movies, my first visit to the cinema since July (that is a pretty impressive feat for me, there was a time when I was going to the movies two to three times a week). I saw James Cameron’s latest -and now award winning – offering, Avatar, which had some interesting parallels to my current life experience. I also visited I Heart New York Kitchen, where I had proper chocolate malt.

After the movies and food I headed to my first post retreat stop, Hoima, town about four hours west of Kampala. In Hoima I spent time with another MCCer relaxing and learning about his work. One afternoon we went for a hike up a large, steep hill overlooking the city. The view was great, but the walk was a reminder that I haven’t walked nearly as much here as I did when I lived in the Twin Cities, it was grueling. I’m thinking of doing hiking trip later in the year and some conditioning will definitely be in order before that happens.

After Hoima I headed to Gulu to visit another MCCer. Gulu was an interesting experience for me because I had heard so much about the place in relation to the LRA. Things have really changed there since my first visit to Uganda, there are lots of signs of hope. Gulu is where I spent Christmas. The day began with a wonderful breakfast, including baked oatmeal, a big treat for me. Breakfast was followed by church and then a visit to the home of a co-worker of the service worker I was visiting for Christmas dinner, a wonderful spread including several different types of meat.

After Gulu my next stop was Jinja where the Nile flows out of Lake Victoria. I met back up with my Sudan teammates and we stayed at the Kingfisher Safari Lodge, a wonderful resort on the shores of Lake Victoria. We made a couple of trips into town to enjoy lunch at cafe where I had quiche to days in a row. The only downside to my time in Jinja was an ear infection which, when the clinic in Jinja gave me the wrong medicine, necessitated a trip to Kampala for further treatment. The trip to Kampala allowed me to pay a visit to I Heart New York Kitchen, which I ate at again the next day (by this point totally regretting my refusal of a loyalty card during my initial visit) when the rest of team and I passed through Kampala on our way back to Entebbe. We rounded out our trip with a few days staying at a convent near Lake Victoria. We arrived on New Years Eve and exhausted from all the travel and eating I passed the end of the twenty-oughts in my sleep.

The remaining time in Uganda was spent going back and forth to Kampala to visit friends and collect supplies such as foods, spices, and books not available in Sudan or only available at a much higher cost. I also my first haircut since my arrival, and the I have to say the stylist did a wonderful job. After three weeks I was very ready to return home to hot, dusty Sudan and get back to work.

The Gulu Bus

The Kampala bus park is crowded with travelers venturing out across Uganda to visit their friends and loved ones during the holiday season. The area is choked with people and their cargo to the point that the buses, although ostensibly the rasion d’etre for the park’s existence seem more like interlopers in a sea of humanity. Their drivers come unnervingly close to children and livestock with each maneuver. It seems they can only move a few feet at time without a group of people pounding on their sides to warn them of an imminent collision.

The charismatic conductors are engaged in inciting the holiday travelers to select their vehicle over another that may be traveling in the same direction. They call out to me asking me where I am going, assuming I am off to one of the more touristed corners of Uganda. I am not I am here to board the Gulu bus. I finally offer some poor conductor satisfaction by selecting his bus for my journey. I board and wait in the midday heat, magnified by virtue of my sitting in a metallic box in the heart of the city. As I wait I think, I think about the fist time I saw the Gulu bus.

The first time I saw the Gulu bus I was going elsewhere in Uganda, it was parked directly across from where my bus was; it was 2006, my first time in Uganda, and the very name of that city struck me as somehow ominous. The LRA, while not at the peak of its violence, was still active, and actively reeking havoc in the lives of northern Ugandans. Gulu was the city to which the night commuters – children who were forced to leave their homes in isolated villages for the safety of the city – fled, and many were still making that nocturnal journey to safety each day. I wondered why anyone would go to Gulu, so dark, so dangerous, so heart breaking.

It has been a little less than four years since I first saw the Gulu bus and now I am a passenger, on my way to join other MCCers to celebrate Christmas. So much has changed in so little time. Gulu which was once, to me, a frontier shrouded in mystery and fear is now a place to which I can go for relaxation and socialization. The roads which I once would have considered grueling, now seem pleasant and reasonably smooth. The town itself has changed, too, of course. Jobs and aid have flowed into the town as the awareness of the travails of northern Uganda’s people have reached western eyes and ears. The specter of the LRA has faded, now more of a concern for Sudan than for Uganda. A sense of hope is emerging in the place which was a desperate refuge.

I am amazed when I think about the changes that have occurred, in my life and in that place. Changes that have lead me to board the Gulu bus for Christmas. Changes that have given me a needed reminder changes happen. We change, the world around us changes, everything changes, and sometimes it changes for the better. I work for an NGO, I and the organization for which I work are in the business of change, and when your life revolves around change you are bound to experience frustration over the glacial pace at which it seems to occur.

That is what journeys are for, so we can move away, so we can get some distance and with distance perspective. I’m gaining perspective from sitting in a hot metallic box, in the heart of city, with a crush of humanity swirling below me. I am gaining perspective because soon that bus will travel over some not so bad roads and carry me to Gulu. I am on the Gulu bus because change happens to me and to the world by which I am surrounded.

James Taylor, Shed a Little Light

It is one of my personal traditions to listen to this song each year on Martin Luther King, Jr. Day followed by King’s own “I Have A Dream” speech.

Regardless of the day of the year I’ve always found the opening worlds of this song incredibly moving and at times motivating. “Let us turn our thoughts today to Martin Luther King…” This song is a main stay of my “motivation for serving others” playlist. Through serving I have felt a “…feeling like the clenching of a fist.” In bearing witness to the struggle of others and desiring to help I have felt “…a hunger in the center of the chest.”

“Shed a Little Light,” by James Taylor, from the album New Moon Shine.

Let us turn our thoughts today
To Martin Luther King
And recognize that there are ties between us
All men and women
Living on the Earth
Ties of hope and love
Sister and brotherhood
That we are bound together
In our desire to see the world become
A place in which our children
Can grow free and strong
We are bound together
By the task that stands before us
And the road that lies ahead
We are bound and we are bound

There is a feeling like the clenching of a fist
There is a hunger in the center of the chest
There is a passage through the darkness and the mist
And though the body sleeps the heart will never rest

(Chorus)
Shed a little light, oh Lord
So that we can see
Just a little light, oh Lord
Wanna stand it on up
Stand it on up, oh Lord
Wanna walk it on down
Shed a little light, oh Lord

Can’t get no light from the dollar bill
Don’t give me no light from a TV screen
When I open my eyes
I wanna drink my fill
From the well on the hill

(Do you know what I mean?)
- Chorus -

There is a feeling like the clenching of a fist
There is a hunger in the center of the chest
There is a passage through the darkness and the mist
And though the body sleeps the heart will never rest

Oh, Let us turn our thoughts today
To Martin Luther King
And recognize that there are ties between us
All men and women
Living on the Earth
Ties of hope and love
Sister and brotherhood

The Dirge Goes On

The first time I saw an image of the collapsed roof of Haiti’s Presidential Palace I saw it in passing. But in the flicker of a second I felt the most palpable sense of disbelief I can ever recall experiencing. I knew the building instantly, it was dwelling in the most primal reaches of my world consciousness. I cannot generally recognize the most nation’s major buildings of state on sight, but Haiti’s I knew instantly. I recognized that building because tragedy is not new to the nation occupying the western third of Hispaniola.

The presidential palace became burned in my memory because I first saw images of it during Haiti’s political machinations surrounding President Aristide in the 1990s. I don’t know much about those events but I know them to be a part of a much large history marked more by despair then by joy. I attended university with several students who were either from Haiti or who were of Haitian descent. I remember one of them speaking on the history of his nation in my speech class. The thing that stuck with me is the liminal nature of his country. It exist midway between Africa and the Americas not fully apart of either place, perpetually displaced and out of place. The people of Haiti are not primarily descendants of the native peoples of the Caribbean but neither are they descended from the colonial masters of the region. The Haitian people are the children African slaves and Haiti in many ways reflects this heritage as well as the cultural heritage of the Americas. It is reflected in the faith and culture of the Haitian people. It is also reflected in the challenges they face. Haiti is as poor as an Africa nation, it place in the human development index is as low, the AIDS rate there is as high.

Many, many people are weeping in Haiti today. Weeping over friends and love ones lost, but the weeping is not something new, it is not a sudden invasion into a people’s otherwise peaceful existence. Death coming for too many too early is not some new song the Haitian people will sing in a minor key, the death brought by this earthquake is instead a new verse to be added to an already lengthy dirge.

Many, many people are opening their hearts and where they can their wallets to the people of Haiti. This is noble and needed. I have always been impressed by the level of generosity expressed by the people living in the North America context. I have watched as people have given generously in the wake of numerous personal, local, national and international tragedies. But I have also watched as the flow of money slowed to a trickle as those events receded into our memories just as their attendant images receded from our TVs, newspapers, and web-browsers.

So I am offering a challenge, give now but let your giving be a beginning. Consider using this painful moment as a place to begin a relationship with a people and place. Haiti doesn’t simply need to heal and rebuild from an earthquake, it needs to heal and rebuild from a long history of heart-wrenching occurrences. Looking beyond the events of today, seek to understand a larger history. A history which created a systemic poverty that no doubt exacerbated the impact of the earthquake. Haiti must rebuild, the global community can help it rebuild itself in to something better. The children of Haiti will live their lives marked by this catastrophic event, the global community can, with effort and commitment, ensure that this is the last national cataclysm they face rather than allowing it to simple be the first.

Death is painful and tragic whenever and wherever it occurs. But the beauty in the construction of our universe is that death contains within itself the potential for life. It is true on a biological level the death and subsequent decay of plants and animals provides nutrients to the soil allowing for the nourishment of new life. This truth can and is also played out in social environments. The world can commit to stand with Haiti to nurture new growth from the detritus of cities and towns. The world can join with Haiti in mourning death but if we stick around we can be a part of something far more satisfying, a celebration of new life.